Climbing Shoe Guide: What to Know Before You Buy

Finding a good pair of climbing shoes is essential for better traction and stability on the rock face. As it significantly affects performance technique and comfort while climbing.

A snug fit climbing shoe prevents your foot from shifting forward, backwards and side to side, making it easier to maintain a stable grip on smaller footholds. 

Hence, finding a pair of shoes that fit correctly and prevent your feet from shifting around inside the shoes is essential.

My first climbing shoes were Evolv lace-ups, but I wanted better rubber and Velcro. Then I tried Five Ten Hiangles and Unparallel Regulus but found round-toe boxes didn’t fit.

Skwamas and Otakis were too big and soft. Now, I use Solution Comps that fit well with better asymmetry and stiffness.

There are various climbing shoes; therefore, picking the right shoes is essential. In this guide, I will discuss some important factors to consider while buying climbing shoes.

Related: How to clean climbing shoes

What are climbing shoes?

It is a specialised type of footwear designed for rock climbing. Typically, these shoes have a tight fit asymmetrical downturn sticky rubber sole designed to fit in the small cracks and crevices for rock climbing.

Types of Climbing Shoes

There are three main categories of climbing shoes

1. Neutral 
2. Moderate 
3. Aggressive 
4. Neutral:

1. Neutral:

Neutral shoes have a straight last from heel to toe and have nearly symmetrical or slightly asymmetrical toe boxes.

it allow your toes to lie flat and offer a more natural and comfortable fit. These shoes are not only great choices for beginners but also suitable for experienced climbers who want comfortable all-day shoes for longer climbs.

Neutral climbing shoes are best for use in cracks and vertical and forward-leaning walls. The soles of the neutral shoes are typically thicker and stiffer, hence offering good support but lesser sensitivity compared to moderate and aggressive shoes.

2. Moderate Shoes: 

Moderate shoes have curved toe boxes, slightly less comfortable than neutral shoes because they are more down-turned.

it has sticker rubber and thin soles, while neutral shoes provide better grip and feel on the rock.

It is a good option for a wide range of climbing, enabling climbers to climb different routes like crack climbs, long multi-pitch climbs and slightly overhung routes.

3. Aggressive:

These shoes have more downturns at the toes and more muscular heel tension to put your feet in a stronger position for tackling steep and overhung routes.

Aggressive shoes have asymmetrical shapes that curve towards the big toe, which allows the climber to put greater weight on their big toe. 

These shoes are preferred for sports climbing, bouldering problems and gym routes where performance is the key.

Due to the snug fit, strong curve and high heel tension, these shoes are painful. Hence, climbers typically wear these shoes for single-pitch sports climbs and routes rather than multi-pitch climbs on all days.

Aggressive shoes have thinner soles and sticker rubber for optimal grip and sensitivity, though it can lead to faster wear.

How to choose climbing shoes

1. Shoes Fit:

A proper fit is essential for climbing shoes for better control and sensitivity on the rock. You want shoes that fit snugly but don’t cause pain and discomfort. A pair that fits appropriately prevents your foot from shifting inside the boots.

A loose-fit shoe will lead to decreased stability and increased muscle fatigue and may cause hotspots and blisters.

To find the right shoes

1. Try the shoes in the afternoon or after the break to get the best fit, as the feet are naturally swollen throughout the day.
2. Try different models and sizes.
3. Ensure there is no dead space in front of the toe, and the heel should fit snugly.
4. While shopping, remember that climbing shoes are typically worn without socks, so remember to take them off when trying them.
5. Avoid buying shoes that are too short. It may stretch, but it did not last too long.
6. Climbing Terrain Type:

Before buying the shoes, decide the terrain you will climb, as each type of terrain needs different shoes for better performance.

Shoes with flat soles are designed for slabs and vertical wall climbing. These shoes are often more comfortable and popular amongst beginners and kids. Examples of flat-sole climbing shoes are Five Ten and Moccasym.

Shoes with down-turned soles are meant for overhanging climbs. Downturned shoes often have soft soles, which gives sensitivity to the toe of the climbers.

Downturn shoes are available in three categories

1. Slightly downturn shoes
2. Moderately downturn shoes
3. Aggressively downturns shoes

2. Closer Type:

The most popular closer system in climbing shoes are 

1. Lace-up
2. Velcro (Hook and loop)
3. Slip-on

1. Lace-up: 

It is one of the most adjustable types of closet system for climbing shoes, but it is difficult to put on and remove. These shoes can fit a more comprehensive range of feet and are popular among all-day shoe climbers lovers.

With the ability to loosen and tighten the lace, achieving the most comfortable and supportive fit is easy. You can loosen the lace when your feet get hot or swell up.

2. Velcro (Hook and Loop):

This closure, also known as a strap, offers fast and superior closure and opening. Climbing shoes with strap closers are popular among gym climbers and aggressive shoe lovers.

3. Slip-on: 

These shoes have an elastic closer system and are super easy to put on and off, but they lack adjustability. Shoes with slip-on closers offer any shoe’s most excellent sensitivity and low profile. If you bring it too large, it can pop up while climbing.

3. Dead Space:

It refers to the extra volume inside your shoes that is not filled by your foot. It can occur if the shoes that you have bought are too large. Avoid having additional space in front of your foot toe. 

It reduces the rigidity of your toe box and your ability to stay on the footholds. Hence, look for snug-fit shoes that are not too tight or loose.

4. Stiffness:

Soft climbing shoes have thinner rubber soles (3 or 4 mm) and are more flexible. While the stiffer climbing shoes have thick rubber at the bottom, they are less flexible.

Softer shoes are more sensitive but less supportive, suitable for short pitches and boulders, and best for performance attempts. You will have a much better idea of what is happening beneath the shoes.

Stiffer shoes are more supportive, and your feet won’t tire. That makes stiff climbing shoes ideal for beginners developing their toe muscles and ligaments.

4. Outsole: 

The outsole thickness of the shoes affects its performance and feel. The range of the thicker sole varies between 4 – 5.5mm, which provides good support for edging and is more durable, but you will have less feel and sensitivity of the rock than shoes with thinner sole.

The thinner sole is between 3-4 mm thick. Shoes with thinner soles are best for smearing on the slab routes. 

If you are a beginner, wear shoes with thicker soles as they provide more support, and your feet won’t tire quickly.  Once you have mastered your climbing technique, prefer shoes with thinner soles for a better feel on the rock.

Conclusion: 

Every time I try to switch my shoe brand, it takes me a minimum of 2.5 hours to compare different shoe types. It isn’t enjoyable, but it’s worth it.

I would say go with the shoes with a profile you want (neutral, moderate and aggressive), but make sure it is snug and has no pockets /spaces in the heel and toe box.

Most people recommend wearing very tight climbing shoes, especially for beginners, but I do not recommend that until you are a pro climber. I would suggest wearing shoes you can tolerate for one hour.

How do you choose your climbing shoes, and what is your favourite? Let me know in the comment section.

FAQs.